ROCUS: A NEW LANGUAGE OF BRAZILIAN MENSWEAR
Over nearly six years, Rocus has transformed simplicity into identity, building a language of its own within Brazilian menswear. Born during the pandemic, at a time when our relationship with clothing was undergoing profound changes, the brand emerged from a desire for pieces that were sophisticated, versatile, and full of personality.
Guided by the concept of “Earth Energy,” Rocus found its strength in a more mature, confident, and naturally sensual masculinity. Its pieces do not rely on excess to make an impact. There is intention in every silhouette, in the choice of fabrics, in the color palette, and most importantly, in the way each garment connects with the person wearing it.
The result is a brand that has grown organically and expanded beyond fashion to become part of the identity of those who wear it. The Líquen, now one of Rocus’s most emblematic pieces, embodies this movement. What began as a design concept evolved into a recognizable symbol of the brand and a new way of dressing.
Without major investments behind it, Rocus has built desire through consistency, storytelling, and a singular creative vision. Now, with Baianeiro, its upcoming collection, the brand enters a new chapter inspired by the Minas Gerais and Bahian roots of its creator, taking its aesthetic into an even more intimate and personal territory.
More than simply dressing the Brazilian man, Rocus is creating a new language for him: sophisticated, free, mysterious, and deeply conscious of who he is.
FEATURE INTERVIEW:
Rocus was born in the middle of the pandemic, at a time when people’s relationship with fashion and consumer behavior were undergoing major changes. What did you feel was missing from Brazilian menswear at the time, and what did you want to create with Rocus?
Exactly. It was during the pandemic, an incredibly uncertain period, and it became a moment for me to return to myself, return to where I came from, and mature that into a persona and a visual language. At the time, I felt there was something missing in menswear. I wanted clothing that was simple, sophisticated, and practical, pieces that could serve as the perfect foundation for any look while allowing room for layering and accessories.
The brand is built around the concept of “Earth Energy,” associated with maturity, restraint, and presence. How does this idea translate into the clothing and, most importantly, into the man who wears Rocus?
The construction of the brand and this persona was intentionally created around someone who is more grounded. He is at a point in his life where he wants to build and solidify everything he wants for himself in this world. The brand was born on a specific date and time chosen to make it a Libra with a Capricorn rising. We work a lot with sensuality and mystery, combined with a more mature side.
We translate that through our silhouettes and color palette, which naturally attracts a practical and sophisticated man. He is at a point in his life where he already makes his own money, is established, wants to dress well, and wants clothing that works anywhere, with original design and quality fabrics. This man is demanding. He knows what he is buying. That is the audience we envisioned, and it is the audience we have been building and retaining over the past few years.
You previously worked with an aesthetic more connected to what you describe as “Fire Energy.” What inspired this shift in creative direction, and what did you discover about your own creative process while building Rocus?
I truly believe clothing is a reflection of the moment each person is living in. It can communicate your personality and who you are at that particular point in your life. I think the creation of Rocus came very much from that idea. I came from a brand where we created a more “Fire” persona. He was also sophisticated, but seductive, connected to nightlife and flirting. He was observant and always being observed. Very Leo, you know?
The clothing had to communicate that. It had to communicate desire, so there was a lot of transparency, lace, and men’s lingerie. I wanted to take a different direction and experiment with other things, and I think my own moment in life reflected that. I moved toward a man who is also sensual, but whose sensuality is not overly exposed. It is a sensuality that comes through his behavior. He is confident, mysterious, and intriguing.
You know when you meet a beautiful man who is well dressed, smells good, is polite, has an interesting conversation, and there is this sensuality there simply because he intrigues you? It is not on display. He is seductive because of his behavior, not because of how much he reveals.
The Líquen tank top became one of Rocus’s signature pieces after going viral and being worn by a series of public figures. What happens to a brand when a piece stops being just a product and becomes part of the culture and identity of the people who wear it?
I had wanted to create a ribbed tank top for a long time. Through my research, I knew it would be a trend for 2020 and that there was already demand for it. But finding the fabric on a large scale was extremely difficult.
To give you an idea, when I produced the first Rocus tank tops, I struggled to source the fabric because suppliers would tell me, “You want this type of knit? It is usually used for cuffs and collars.” There simply was not a large scale supply. It came in smaller quantities and tubular rolls of fabric.
Today, you can find ribbed tank tops everywhere, but at the time it was something I was genuinely fighting to develop. The design happened together with my pattern maker. It was originally supposed to be something else, but while working on the mannequin, we realized that these two straps, which look almost like two rings, could become something really special.
When the first sample was finished, I said, “I am going to sell this like crazy.” And that is exactly what happened. To this day, it remains one of the brand’s best selling pieces. I have never stopped producing the Líquen tank top. It is also a form of behavior. Today I understand that it looks like a basic piece, but there is absolutely nothing basic about it. It takes you somewhere in your subconscious. You do not know exactly where, but there is something very sensual about it.
I think the moment I truly understood that I had created something that inspired other people was when I went to a music festival and saw every color we had produced up to that point being worn by so many people. A friend of mine said, “It looks like your tank top is the official uniform of the event.” That was when I realized I had actually created something with an identity of its own.
Rocus has grown largely organically, through press, celebrities, creators, and recognition from its audience. In a market increasingly driven by major investments and the speed of digital culture, do you believe that building desire organically is still one of the greatest strengths of an independent brand?
Absolutely. I believe organic desire is one of the greatest strengths of an independent brand. I think we are all exhausted by what the internet and social media constantly put in front of us. These days, my routine on Instagram has been hiding ads and marking that I am not interested in them, so that fewer of them appear and I can actually see what I want to see, like posts from friends and brands organically.
I think clothing becomes more powerful when it is actually worn and experienced offline, on the streets and on stages. The internet is always there. You see so much all the time, and thirty minutes later you have already forgotten what you saw because you are constantly being bombarded with so many things at once.
If Rocus could dress two names in music today, one from Brazil and one from around the world, who would you choose to represent the energy of the brand?
There are so many people I would love to dress who I think embody the brand, including artists who actually inspire the designs themselves. Djavan, the lead singer of JMSN, the members of Paradis, Omar Apollo, and without a doubt, Lenny Kravitz. That would be a dream.
After nearly six years of Rocus and your presentation at The Pitch, what comes next? What place do you want Rocus to occupy within Brazilian menswear, and what is the next territory you want the brand to conquer?
I am really excited about the new collection, which will be called Baianeiro. It draws inspiration from my experience of having a Minas Gerais mother and a Bahian father. There is something I have said before and will say again. After almost six years, it is incredible to see how far Rocus has come without investment. That is the result of a well built brand, with a strong narrative and a lot of work behind it. Having a brand is not easy.
I think the brand is ready to receive an investor. Someone who believes in it and is willing to invest, because I truly believe it has everything it needs to become one of the biggest brands in the country. And all of the knowledge and experience I have accumulated along the way will soon become a mentorship. In addition to the brand, I am going to create a course with different modules for people who are just entering the market.
I never had anyone to tell me, “Do not do it this way. Do it this way instead. Try this.” My idea is to make the journey easier for people who are starting out, so they can have more successes than mistakes.
TEAM CREDITS:
Editor-in-Chief: Prince Chenoa
Feature Editor: Taylor Winter Wilson (@taylorwinter)
Writer & Brazil Editor: Leonardo Loreto (@leonardoloreto)
Founder & Creative Director: Renan Rocha (@renanrocus)
Photographer: Paulo Campos (@paulocamppos)
